Monday 6 January 2014

HERNE BAY, Kent, England

              Herne Bay is a nice little seaside town, tucked away on the South coast of the Thames Estuary. It is located seven miles north of Canterbury, and five miles south of Whitstable in the south east of England. Today with a population of around 35,000. Obviously, like many of the towns around the coast it began small, but has grown steadily over the centuries. This pleasant town began life as a shipping community, rather than fishing being the mainstay, as is often the case around the coast. The town receiving both goods, and passengers, including coal from the North, Newcastle. Passengers, and goods passed through the town on their way to both Canterbury, and Dover. 
              The oldest pub in the town. Is actually called The Ship, perhaps in honour of its early shipping history. Located right on the seafront, it looks the part with its board walls, white painted, and a semi protected outside deck, with tables looking over the beach, and sea. It's still much used today, due to its pleasant location. Although reviews are somewhat mixed as regards the quality of its food. Most, however agree it has a nice atmosphere. Is it as popular, as it was back then? Well, at least it will be more peaceful, although I can't help but feel it couldnt be better placed for its outlook. In the early days of the town, a hostelry such as this, on the beachfront, would have been the first thing to spring up. Especially once new workmen were heading to the area. Some enterprising soul will always see the opportunity to offer what's needed.  Offering the men somewhere warm and dry, to spend their relaxation time with their mates, The Ship, would be just the thing.
                        Local map, showing Herne Bay's location on the Thames Estuary.
            The name Herne, in Old English, 'Hyme' means corner, or corner of land. Exactly what corner of land it referred to, is unknown. Possible a spare piece of land, unused for agriculture.The first recorded listing of the place as Hynan was in 1100. By 1801 the size of the population is listed as 1,232. By 1931, it had grown to 14,500. Compare that with today's just over 35,000 and you can see something of its pattern of growth. Today, it is a pleasant town, with many fine eating places. Good quality fish, including local crab can be obtained there. It will take you more than one visit to discover them all. 
            It would have been a very rough place at first, with mainly workmen. A few buildings gradually being built to accommodate the ships coming in, and gradually the workers, and their families. There was a little river running through the middle of the place then, heading north. This was the Plenty Brook, still there, but today running under the town. Where, it passes through the sewers, and on into the sea. A shame to hide something so potentially pretty I always think, but no doubt not thought of in those terms, at the time. Not when priorities were very different. The more wealthy investors in the town over the years, saw it's many natural attractions. Not least of which, was the nice stretch of beach beside the town. This is, no doubt the reason why the Pier was invested in too, once the longest Pier in the UK. A title it held until 1978. It's history has been beset with problems.
              The wooden pier, built 1830. Although it changed many times over the period.
             The pier is now isolated out at sea, after a series of mishaps over many decades. Finally  Although big plans are afoot to build a new one. To be the first of its kind. That the original was built from wood, was mostly agreed to be a mistake. Attacked by worms, struck by storms, it was neverthe less responsible for some of the initial growth of the town. However, the next one it will be an amazing forward thinking structure. Allowing for motorised traffic, and quite innovative moorings.
                           Model for planned design of new pier, and mooring
            As from these small beginnings, the town gradually grew, it was not always a smooth road. In common with the rest of coast, it had it unruly period during the 18 th century. Due to government taxes, smuggling of alcohol, and tobacco grew. This was a time when the place was overrun (it is said) with quite violent smugglers. There were regular running battles between them, and the law, or other authorities. It wasn't until 1820, when the population was trying to grow, that the smugglers were finally 'overpowered, and subdued', (words actually used historically). This encouraged more investors to the town, and as quickly as ten years later, in 1830 that the first wooden pier was built. Some time later an esplanade was built too, to further encourage visitors to the area. As seen in the  photograph below, from that era.
                               In its heyday, as a seaside destination.     
           Herne Bay became a popular holiday destination for a while. It said to be the warmest resort along the coast. Especially popular during the Victorian era, when there was an overall surge in the popularity of seaside destinations. Unable to sustain it much beyond that era, due perhaps, to the advent of foreign holidays, as well as a flooding problems around Herne bay. It is an area much renowned for flooding. As the sea level rises  by at least two metres along that stretch of coast. Over the years many different sea defences were built in an effort to avoid more. Including a long, curved, breakwater, named 'Neptunes Arm.'
              Despite this, the eighteen hundreds saw many general improvements, and growth around the town.  As well as increased holiday makers, more people started settling there. The first significant number of homes built in 1820, once the smugglers were dealt with. The first church was build in 1834, Christ Church, this was gifted by Sir Henry Oxendon. What a lovely name, don't you think. During that same era, the railway reached the town, being part of The Chatham line. Along with the first ever, free standing clock tower of 75 feet in height. Built in 1837 with a donation of four thousand pounds by another wealthy benefactor from london, Ann Thwaites. The steamboat service reached there in 1840's, using the pier. Running regularly from the Bay to London. Called the Thanet Wherry, it was a narrow pulling boat, some eighteen feet (5 m) long. It ran until 1960. Indeed, much private, and public enterprise took place during those decades. 
             Quite a few schools were built, including a well known boarding school. None of which survived to the present day. There are, of course several other schools in use today. Seemingly. To cover the whole age range of children. 

              During more recent years, 1912, saw the notoriety of the Brides in the Bath murders, by George Joseph Smith. Then during WW2, sea forts were built, in Herne Bay, and Whistable. These are still in evidence. At Reculver, close by being only a couple of miles walk along the coast, was where the bouncing bomb was tested. During 1910, a pavilion was added to the pier, burn down again in a 1970's fire. This site later became a sports pavilion in 1972, later demolished. It now stands as bare concrete, used as a site for events. During 1978 a major storm destroyed the centre section of the pier, isolating it from the beach. It still decays marooned out at sea, hence the newest plans to replace it, and again regenerate Herne Bay. An event I look forward to greatly, as it deserves to flourish.
               There are festivals, and annual events held in the town now. A good ten day music festival is held in August. Plus hosting bandstand music, garden in Bloom, and of course it has it's unique Little Theatre. Altogether a sound little town, with a promising, and interesting future.

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