Monday 6 January 2014

Folkestone. England

            Folkestone is located on the English Channel, at its narrowest point, in Kent, S/E England. As with all of that chalk based, Kent Coast, it's proximity to the Continent is important. It has affected its history, and present, and no doubt, must continue in the future. The name 'Folkestone', it is believed, was originally Folcanstan, 7th Century, meaning a meeting place, of the stone, Folcans stone, a man of that time. Today, it is a coastal, seaside town, with many strings to its bow. The town is primarily on two levels, one on the flat near the sea, and one along its cliftop. A fact that makes the streets between the two sometimes steep, but as regeneration is going on, attractive. Part of it being transformed to a 'Creative Quarter', with quaint, colourful little shops, and cafes up a series of steps.
        The success, and popularity of the town suffered a downturn in the early days of foreign holidays. As did many UK holiday destinations. As flights abroad became affordable, tempting many people to head for the sun. Now, like many of those places, it is finding a new image, and beginning to regenerate between the sea level, and cliff top. There are always changes going on with many places around this coast. Although there have been settlements here for millennia. There are signs, of very early settlements on that stretch of coast, dating back to the Neolithic, and Iron Age of around 5,000 BCE. Some fairly recently discovered, unearthed locally, along the cliffs. 
       After beginning as a meeting place, it gradually became a more stable settlement. The first people were the Britons, a dark race it is thought. After, Celts of two types settled the island, the Brythonic invaders who spoke one type of Celtic language, close to the old Britsh. The other speaking more like the Gaelic language surviving in parts today. The Celts were were much fairer, and taller than the original settlers. It is thought they did integrate to some extent. These peoples continuing through the Iron, age, and the  Roman, and pro Roman periods. The Roman era being  80-350CE. In common with the general history of settlement, going on in much of Britain. Next, came the Saxons, the Anglo Saxons, speaking something near to the English language of the present. These peoples, gradually driving out the British speaking Celts into places further afield. Such as Wales, Cornwall, S. Scotland, some even emigrating to Brittany, in France. A few, it is thought, going even further, and ending up in Spain. From what I was able to discover, the integration, and gradual absorption of invaders, and travellers into Britain, and the accompanying changes to the language, is hard to pin down exactly, as it would be. From my observation, I see that there are still great influx of peoples, both British, and European coming to, or passing through, this whole coastline, even today. Again, it's proximity with the Continent being vital. Because of it being the closest point to Europe, only some 20 miles across.
        Next, after the Saxons, came the Normans, with a Norman knight holding the baroncy of Folkestone. In the year 1095, Lord Folkestone is recorded as it's knight. It was already a fishing village by then, surrounded by rich lands, and a rich and plentiful sea to fish. 1137 saw the building of a Benedictine Abbey, built near the site of the earlier Folkestone Priory, for nuns. Build for the daughter, of the first Christian king, Eadbald of Kent, around 630. Where now sits the present day, church. 

                The present Church of St Mary & St Eanswythe. On site of original Abbey of Eanswythe.
            By 1216, it was important enough to have its own mayor, and corporation. When, unfortunately, it was also affluent enough to attract the worst kind of attention from the French. Who attacked, and laid waste to the town, as they often attempted throughout history along this coastline, bordering on the English Channel. This ongoing threat caused other defences to be erected. A proper harbour was planned from this time, and for many years after, but not built until much later.
             By the Tudor period, it became a town proper. Later, in 1313 it became included as part of the Cinque Ports, a group of the largest trading towns along that busy coast. These banding together for trade advantages. Although at that time of joining, they had to supply from town funds, seven boats for trading. This enabled the town to grow further, trading mainly in wool, wine, and cloth.

                                         Part of the beach, and coast.
          By the time of the reign of Elizabeth 1. There were said to be around 120 houses established there. With fishing, and trade the long standing settlement continued, as before, growing slowly, and steadily. Dwelling were primarily built along by the beach, and shoreline at that time. Although further back, are steep rocky cliffs, on which, in 1885 was built a perpendicular lift, water balanced. Still in use today, designed by the man who fifteen years later, designed the first escalator. This is located above the shore, where the harbour stands today. 
                                        The water balanced lift, still in use today.

        The harbour was finally built at the beginning of the 18 Century. Around the harbour is where many of today's tourists head for its fresh fish stalls, and restaurants. You are able to sit outdoors by the harbour, near the boats, where shellfish, and wet fish, is still landed fresh from these local fishing boats. Or, in a more upmarket restaurant over the water. It's a typical little old English harbour front, with a few public houses, of historical note, and fishing paraphernalia laying about. It is a pleasant place to sit on a Summers day, to watch the tide flow into the harbour. Which becomes all sand at low tide, leaving any small vessels marooned prettily, until the next flood of water sweeps in, filling it again.
                                               The harbour at low tide
        It was only about fifty years before the building of the harbour, in 1684, that a free school for boys was opened. As normal at that time, girls were assumed not to need an education. Their future, generally assumed to be domestic. This school, was caused to be built by one William Harvey, who's legacy today is the Harvey Grammar, and the Guildhall building. By1700's the town was expanding away from the beach front, creeping steadily uphill. Today, the top of the cliff along the Leas, is some of the prettiest, with the largest, and most interesting Victorian, and Edwardian architecture. One place to be sure to visit, for a meal, or afternoon tea, is the large hotel, The Grand, set behind some of the beautiful walks, and gardens on the clifftop.
        The large dining room of The Grand, overlooking the Leas proanade walks, and gardens.
        Like most seafront towns, of the era, smuggling abounded for a while during the 18 Century. Mainly around 'The Warrens',  situated in the east of the town. Before the end of 1790's the War Office bought nearly three hundred acres of land in the west of Folkestone, for barracks, and the Shorncliffe Redoubt. The early wooden barracks replaced in 1804, by stone built ones, for the Cavalry & Artillery brigades. The present 'John Moore' barracks are the home of the Gurkha regiment in Britain. 
        Being in such prominence to the continent and the English Channel, the military, and both world wars were based there. In WW1, 65,000 Belgium's refugees ended up in the town. Although before long, they were moved, along with most the population, as houses were requisitioned for arriving Canadian troops. On May 25. 1917. Low cloud over London, caused a German bomber squadron, to jettison their bombs over the town. Killing 71, and injuring 94. After the war, some regeneration occurred, when The Marina, Pleasure Gardens, and Marine Pavilion built.
         The second worlds war saw many children evacuated to the town. Although none stayed long because of the area becoming a vital troop, and prohibited area  in 1940. Again, because of its location on the English channel. It is estimated about 35,000 residents had to vacate their homes because of this. The town faced constant attacks, and suffered immense damage. It was over twenty years after the war, before it became a seaside resort again.  
          The present Channel Tunnel is built nearby. It's construction gave work to many in, and around Folkestone. Completed in 1994, it is thirty two miles long, and the fastest train link to France. There was once a ferry running from the town, to Bologne, now a derelict site. This site, along with the present harbour, and the old rotunda fun fair making up some 23 hectares were sold in 2007. Plans passed recently mean a great renaissance of the area, including 1000 houses, restaurants, shops, and a sports complex. In addition there will be a park, and reconstructed sand dunes to protect the area from the sea. A rough guide says it Is in five stages over the next 20/25 years, and means Folkestone's future is cemented for the foreseeable future.
          Those wanting to see the old style harbour, and life as it was or hundreds of years, will have to be quick. Although overall, it can only compliment the new Creative Quarter, and long establishes, and beautiful Leas Cliff area.

                     An artists impression of the new area, looking down to the harbour/docks.
 

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