Wednesday 29 January 2014
ali keilly writes: It's life......as we know it
ali keilly writes: It's life......as we know it: Life is strange isn't it. Well, actually it's strange, and wonderful.....and more than a bit weird, yes definitely weird....
Monday 6 January 2014
HERNE BAY, Kent, England
Herne Bay is a nice little seaside town, tucked away on the South coast of the Thames Estuary. It is located seven miles north of Canterbury, and five miles south of Whitstable in the south east of England. Today with a population of around 35,000. Obviously, like many of the towns around the coast it began small, but has grown steadily over the centuries. This pleasant town began life as a shipping community, rather than fishing being the mainstay, as is often the case around the coast. The town receiving both goods, and passengers, including coal from the North, Newcastle. Passengers, and goods passed through the town on their way to both Canterbury, and Dover. 
Local map, showing Herne Bay's location on the Thames Estuary.
The wooden pier, built 1830. Although it changed many times over the period.
Model for planned design of new pier, and mooring
In its heyday, as a seaside destination. 
The oldest pub in the town. Is actually called The Ship, perhaps in honour of its early shipping history. Located right on the seafront, it looks the part with its board walls, white painted, and a semi protected outside deck, with tables looking over the beach, and sea. It's still much used today, due to its pleasant location. Although reviews are somewhat mixed as regards the quality of its food. Most, however agree it has a nice atmosphere. Is it as popular, as it was back then? Well, at least it will be more peaceful, although I can't help but feel it couldnt be better placed for its outlook. In the early days of the town, a hostelry such as this, on the beachfront, would have been the first thing to spring up. Especially once new workmen were heading to the area. Some enterprising soul will always see the opportunity to offer what's needed. Offering the men somewhere warm and dry, to spend their relaxation time with their mates, The Ship, would be just the thing.
The name Herne, in Old English, 'Hyme' means corner, or corner of land. Exactly what corner of land it referred to, is unknown. Possible a spare piece of land, unused for agriculture.The first recorded listing of the place as Hynan was in 1100. By 1801 the size of the population is listed as 1,232. By 1931, it had grown to 14,500. Compare that with today's just over 35,000 and you can see something of its pattern of growth. Today, it is a pleasant town, with many fine eating places. Good quality fish, including local crab can be obtained there. It will take you more than one visit to discover them all.
It would have been a very rough place at first, with mainly workmen. A few buildings gradually being built to accommodate the ships coming in, and gradually the workers, and their families. There was a little river running through the middle of the place then, heading north. This was the Plenty Brook, still there, but today running under the town. Where, it passes through the sewers, and on into the sea. A shame to hide something so potentially pretty I always think, but no doubt not thought of in those terms, at the time. Not when priorities were very different. The more wealthy investors in the town over the years, saw it's many natural attractions. Not least of which, was the nice stretch of beach beside the town. This is, no doubt the reason why the Pier was invested in too, once the longest Pier in the UK. A title it held until 1978. It's history has been beset with problems.
The pier is now isolated out at sea, after a series of mishaps over many decades. Finally Although big plans are afoot to build a new one. To be the first of its kind. That the original was built from wood, was mostly agreed to be a mistake. Attacked by worms, struck by storms, it was neverthe less responsible for some of the initial growth of the town. However, the next one it will be an amazing forward thinking structure. Allowing for motorised traffic, and quite innovative moorings.
As from these small beginnings, the town gradually grew, it was not always a smooth road. In common with the rest of coast, it had it unruly period during the 18 th century. Due to government taxes, smuggling of alcohol, and tobacco grew. This was a time when the place was overrun (it is said) with quite violent smugglers. There were regular running battles between them, and the law, or other authorities. It wasn't until 1820, when the population was trying to grow, that the smugglers were finally 'overpowered, and subdued', (words actually used historically). This encouraged more investors to the town, and as quickly as ten years later, in 1830 that the first wooden pier was built. Some time later an esplanade was built too, to further encourage visitors to the area. As seen in the photograph below, from that era.
Herne Bay became a popular holiday destination for a while. It said to be the warmest resort along the coast. Especially popular during the Victorian era, when there was an overall surge in the popularity of seaside destinations. Unable to sustain it much beyond that era, due perhaps, to the advent of foreign holidays, as well as a flooding problems around Herne bay. It is an area much renowned for flooding. As the sea level rises by at least two metres along that stretch of coast. Over the years many different sea defences were built in an effort to avoid more. Including a long, curved, breakwater, named 'Neptunes Arm.'
Despite this, the eighteen hundreds saw many general improvements, and growth around the town. As well as increased holiday makers, more people started settling there. The first significant number of homes built in 1820, once the smugglers were dealt with. The first church was build in 1834, Christ Church, this was gifted by Sir Henry Oxendon. What a lovely name, don't you think. During that same era, the railway reached the town, being part of The Chatham line. Along with the first ever, free standing clock tower of 75 feet in height. Built in 1837 with a donation of four thousand pounds by another wealthy benefactor from london, Ann Thwaites. The steamboat service reached there in 1840's, using the pier. Running regularly from the Bay to London. Called the Thanet Wherry, it was a narrow pulling boat, some eighteen feet (5 m) long. It ran until 1960. Indeed, much private, and public enterprise took place during those decades.
Quite a few schools were built, including a well known boarding school. None of which survived to the present day. There are, of course several other schools in use today. Seemingly. To cover the whole age range of children.
During more recent years, 1912, saw the notoriety of the Brides in the Bath murders, by George Joseph Smith. Then during WW2, sea forts were built, in Herne Bay, and Whistable. These are still in evidence. At Reculver, close by being only a couple of miles walk along the coast, was where the bouncing bomb was tested. During 1910, a pavilion was added to the pier, burn down again in a 1970's fire. This site later became a sports pavilion in 1972, later demolished. It now stands as bare concrete, used as a site for events. During 1978 a major storm destroyed the centre section of the pier, isolating it from the beach. It still decays marooned out at sea, hence the newest plans to replace it, and again regenerate Herne Bay. An event I look forward to greatly, as it deserves to flourish.
There are festivals, and annual events held in the town now. A good ten day music festival is held in August. Plus hosting bandstand music, garden in Bloom, and of course it has it's unique Little Theatre. Altogether a sound little town, with a promising, and interesting future.
Folkestone. England
Folkestone is located on the English Channel, at its narrowest point, in Kent, S/E England. As with all of that chalk based, Kent Coast, it's proximity to the Continent is important. It has affected its history, and present, and no doubt, must continue in the future. The name 'Folkestone', it is believed, was originally Folcanstan, 7th Century, meaning a meeting place, of the stone, Folcans stone, a man of that time. Today, it is a coastal, seaside town, with many strings to its bow. The town is primarily on two levels, one on the flat near the sea, and one along its cliftop. A fact that makes the streets between the two sometimes steep, but as regeneration is going on, attractive. Part of it being transformed to a 'Creative Quarter', with quaint, colourful little shops, and cafes up a series of steps.
The present Church of St Mary & St Eanswythe. On site of original Abbey of Eanswythe.
The water balanced lift, still in use today.
The harbour at low tide
The large dining room of The Grand, overlooking the Leas proanade walks, and gardens.
The success, and popularity of the town suffered a downturn in the early days of foreign holidays. As did many UK holiday destinations. As flights abroad became affordable, tempting many people to head for the sun. Now, like many of those places, it is finding a new image, and beginning to regenerate between the sea level, and cliff top. There are always changes going on with many places around this coast. Although there have been settlements here for millennia. There are signs, of very early settlements on that stretch of coast, dating back to the Neolithic, and Iron Age of around 5,000 BCE. Some fairly recently discovered, unearthed locally, along the cliffs.
After beginning as a meeting place, it gradually became a more stable settlement. The first people were the Britons, a dark race it is thought. After, Celts of two types settled the island, the Brythonic invaders who spoke one type of Celtic language, close to the old Britsh. The other speaking more like the Gaelic language surviving in parts today. The Celts were were much fairer, and taller than the original settlers. It is thought they did integrate to some extent. These peoples continuing through the Iron, age, and the Roman, and pro Roman periods. The Roman era being 80-350CE. In common with the general history of settlement, going on in much of Britain. Next, came the Saxons, the Anglo Saxons, speaking something near to the English language of the present. These peoples, gradually driving out the British speaking Celts into places further afield. Such as Wales, Cornwall, S. Scotland, some even emigrating to Brittany, in France. A few, it is thought, going even further, and ending up in Spain. From what I was able to discover, the integration, and gradual absorption of invaders, and travellers into Britain, and the accompanying changes to the language, is hard to pin down exactly, as it would be. From my observation, I see that there are still great influx of peoples, both British, and European coming to, or passing through, this whole coastline, even today. Again, it's proximity with the Continent being vital. Because of it being the closest point to Europe, only some 20 miles across.
Next, after the Saxons, came the Normans, with a Norman knight holding the baroncy of Folkestone. In the year 1095, Lord Folkestone is recorded as it's knight. It was already a fishing village by then, surrounded by rich lands, and a rich and plentiful sea to fish. 1137 saw the building of a Benedictine Abbey, built near the site of the earlier Folkestone Priory, for nuns. Build for the daughter, of the first Christian king, Eadbald of Kent, around 630. Where now sits the present day, church.
By 1216, it was important enough to have its own mayor, and corporation. When, unfortunately, it was also affluent enough to attract the worst kind of attention from the French. Who attacked, and laid waste to the town, as they often attempted throughout history along this coastline, bordering on the English Channel. This ongoing threat caused other defences to be erected. A proper harbour was planned from this time, and for many years after, but not built until much later.
By the Tudor period, it became a town proper. Later, in 1313 it became included as part of the Cinque Ports, a group of the largest trading towns along that busy coast. These banding together for trade advantages. Although at that time of joining, they had to supply from town funds, seven boats for trading. This enabled the town to grow further, trading mainly in wool, wine, and cloth.
Part of the beach, and coast.
By the time of the reign of Elizabeth 1. There were said to be around 120 houses established there. With fishing, and trade the long standing settlement continued, as before, growing slowly, and steadily. Dwelling were primarily built along by the beach, and shoreline at that time. Although further back, are steep rocky cliffs, on which, in 1885 was built a perpendicular lift, water balanced. Still in use today, designed by the man who fifteen years later, designed the first escalator. This is located above the shore, where the harbour stands today.
The harbour was finally built at the beginning of the 18 Century. Around the harbour is where many of today's tourists head for its fresh fish stalls, and restaurants. You are able to sit outdoors by the harbour, near the boats, where shellfish, and wet fish, is still landed fresh from these local fishing boats. Or, in a more upmarket restaurant over the water. It's a typical little old English harbour front, with a few public houses, of historical note, and fishing paraphernalia laying about. It is a pleasant place to sit on a Summers day, to watch the tide flow into the harbour. Which becomes all sand at low tide, leaving any small vessels marooned prettily, until the next flood of water sweeps in, filling it again.
It was only about fifty years before the building of the harbour, in 1684, that a free school for boys was opened. As normal at that time, girls were assumed not to need an education. Their future, generally assumed to be domestic. This school, was caused to be built by one William Harvey, who's legacy today is the Harvey Grammar, and the Guildhall building. By1700's the town was expanding away from the beach front, creeping steadily uphill. Today, the top of the cliff along the Leas, is some of the prettiest, with the largest, and most interesting Victorian, and Edwardian architecture. One place to be sure to visit, for a meal, or afternoon tea, is the large hotel, The Grand, set behind some of the beautiful walks, and gardens on the clifftop.
Like most seafront towns, of the era, smuggling abounded for a while during the 18 Century. Mainly around 'The Warrens', situated in the east of the town. Before the end of 1790's the War Office bought nearly three hundred acres of land in the west of Folkestone, for barracks, and the Shorncliffe Redoubt. The early wooden barracks replaced in 1804, by stone built ones, for the Cavalry & Artillery brigades. The present 'John Moore' barracks are the home of the Gurkha regiment in Britain.
Being in such prominence to the continent and the English Channel, the military, and both world wars were based there. In WW1, 65,000 Belgium's refugees ended up in the town. Although before long, they were moved, along with most the population, as houses were requisitioned for arriving Canadian troops. On May 25. 1917. Low cloud over London, caused a German bomber squadron, to jettison their bombs over the town. Killing 71, and injuring 94. After the war, some regeneration occurred, when The Marina, Pleasure Gardens, and Marine Pavilion built.
The second worlds war saw many children evacuated to the town. Although none stayed long because of the area becoming a vital troop, and prohibited area in 1940. Again, because of its location on the English channel. It is estimated about 35,000 residents had to vacate their homes because of this. The town faced constant attacks, and suffered immense damage. It was over twenty years after the war, before it became a seaside resort again.
The present Channel Tunnel is built nearby. It's construction gave work to many in, and around Folkestone. Completed in 1994, it is thirty two miles long, and the fastest train link to France. There was once a ferry running from the town, to Bologne, now a derelict site. This site, along with the present harbour, and the old rotunda fun fair making up some 23 hectares were sold in 2007. Plans passed recently mean a great renaissance of the area, including 1000 houses, restaurants, shops, and a sports complex. In addition there will be a park, and reconstructed sand dunes to protect the area from the sea. A rough guide says it Is in five stages over the next 20/25 years, and means Folkestone's future is cemented for the foreseeable future.
Those wanting to see the old style harbour, and life as it was or hundreds of years, will have to be quick. Although overall, it can only compliment the new Creative Quarter, and long establishes, and beautiful Leas Cliff area.
An artists impression of the new area, looking down to the harbour/docks.
Sunday 5 January 2014
Broadstairs. Kent. England
I looked briefly at Broadstairs already, but only as part of the three towns making up the isle of Thanet. Broadstairs, is situated 80 miles from London, and 20 miles from Dover, heading west along the coast, it is 20 miles from inland Canterbury. A place long considered the jewel in the crown of Thanet. The town crest is Stella Marris, or star of the sea. It certainly deserves a write up of its own. Originally, a small fishing village, and once a quite famous haunt for smugglers, it is now a seaside, tourist destination, with many comfortable holiday cottages, and bed & breakfast places. It is a thriving little town, with most modern amenities, and a good few restaurants, scattered around the town.
The name Broadstairs is taken from a flight of stairs once cut into the chalk cliffs. Leading from the beach to the cliff top, the so called 'Brood Stayrs', leading then, to a 11th century shrine of St Mary's. Retaining that old version of the name, for many centuries, through many of its trading, and smuggling years. Despite having the shrine built there, on the high cliff, it was in the nearby, more inland town of St Peters, that the first church was built in 1080. The cliftop settlement of Broadstairs grew slowly over the centuries, often struggling for survival over the hard years. Surviving mainly for, and by, fishermen, and labourers.
The entire coastline is still white chalk cliffs, of this type. In such steep, and beautiful cliffs was where the 'broad steps' were carved. The three bays making up Broadstairs, are, Viking Bay, Joss Bay, and Botany. Bay. Although there are a series of wonderful beaches, and bays around the area, the beach of present day Broadstairs is very popular, and accessible. You can easily see why it grew, and attracted people to its shores. In addition to why smugglers, and others utilised it's natural assets, and location, to their own ends.
Where the present jetty is built, near the beach, is the original location for the first wooden pier, and jetty. This being built in 1460 by the son of Sir Richard Culmer, another Richard. This is replaced in 1538, when Harbour street, the Main Street from the pier to the town was constructed. Along with the added protection of the York Gate some two years later. The gate, still survives, although without the addition of its two strong gates. Built with the intention of shutting out, the marauding French from the town. A nation, who liked nothing better than to sack, and steal from all of the coastal towns opposite their own shores. As I mentioned already with the history of Deal. Something I am in no doubt, was reciprocated energetically by the English.
The Peir, and Jetty, creates a natural harbour, and safe beach, with the gently sloping sand.
Today, this jetty is used almost, purely recreationally. With a little cafe, and sometimes stalls, at the end in good weather. Back a couple of centuries, in the seventeen, and eighteen hundreds, it was much used for landing large catches of fish, from most of the main ports. Yarmouth, Hastings, Folkestone, Dover, Torbay, were all involved. The little Peir became important for that reason.
The old stairs, probably gone by then, replaced by a new tunnel, and stairs, constructed to the fields above the cliff. Named the Waterloo stairs, it was here the Eagle standard was landed, taken at the battle of Waterloo. The import duty was so high, that smugglers abounded, bringing in whiskey, tobacco, and tea. All part of its complicated history with France. Even before these decades, a whole network of tunnels were dug into the chalk, and used by the smugglers, to both hide, and transport any contraband goods.
In 1824 a regular steamer trade is established, using the Peir, then called Steamer Point. Before this, little fishing hoys, took 72 hours travelling to Margate, from London. The steamers could do nine trips in the same time frame, a great advance. As the town began to become more prosperous, the population swelled. In 1825, it still only had a population of about 300. Then, during the next twenty five years, because of the steamers. It grew rapidly, to some 3000, as the middle/professional classes began to move in.This killed off the smuggling trade, around the year 1840, as it became more prosperous, and respectable.
It wasn't until the Victorian era that the place boomed again. This time, because of the ideas about the value of 'taking the sea air.' Because if this, many children's convalescent homes were built. Wth large spa hotels gradually encroaching into the surrounding areas. The journey from London was considerable, as no railways arrived here until1863. Better connections, becoming available when Charring Cross, Victoria! and Cannon Street were built in London.
Broadstairs lays claim to part of the life of Charles Dickens, as do many towns around the coast, and London. He being quite the traveller. He did spend twenty years staying for long periods in the town, from 1837-1859, and wrote prolifiacally in both the Albion hotel, and what became known as Bleak House, situated above the harbour. It is still possible to stay overnight in both places, and to retrace some of his footsteps. Both have excellent views, and are comfortable hotels. The Albion, being so much larger, also does a good trade in meals, and snacks. The ambiance of the place makes it very popular with locals, and visitors alike.The little house, he describes as Betsy trotwoods house, as seen from his hotel window, sits next door, and Is now a small museum in his honour. The town holds an annual celebration of his life here, in June, every year.
The town holds many fairs, and festivals, live music venues. The bandstand on the green, hosts fairs regularly, and brass bands almost weekly. It's all very pleasant in the summer months, with the winter good for brisk walks along the cliffs, and finding cosy cafes to relax. The fine sweep of beach, in the Summer is always busy, with old fashioned donkey rides, and Punch, & Judy shows. The sea there is Ideal for children, with it's gradually sloping beach.
It's an interesting place to visit, with its little winding streets, and mix of Victorian buildings, and fishermans houses. It can be very difficult to drive through the town, or to park easily, with sections being single track, or one way. Yet, it never seems to put anyone off going. It's described as an almost typical Cornish fishing village. Amusing, considering it's nowhere near Cornwall. I think, as many others seem to, that it's a great town in which to live, as well as visit. Property prices hold their value better than a lot of places. There is no doubt in my mind, that it has much more going for it than being a 'look alike' of somewhere else. You have the charm of the area, lots going on, and the convenience of town. Particularly now, since 2009, the high speed trains get you into London so quickly. It's a smart, and popular commuter town, with typically English charm.
Wednesday 1 January 2014
Whitstable, East Coast, Kent..ENGLAND
Kent abounds with coastal towns. There is a long coastline along the chalk faced, South coast towards Dover, where I have primarily focused my attention so far. Or, many more around the point of the SW corner, past Margate, and up the East coat of Kent towards London. All these places have something about them, all have their own distinct characters. Today I am looking at Whitstable, located eight miles North of Canterbury, two miles NW of Herne Bay. By the time you travel along this coast, you are back to a lower coastline, and more shingle once more.
Débris of the thriving oyster beds, just off shore.
The shingle beach is crowded with small craft, covered for the Winter.
The drying/smoking sheds, on the deep harbour
This is an example of the older fishing village houses, but the newer ones are just a pretty.
The high street of Whitstable, looking towards the Harbour.
The claim is, a settlement existed here well before the Doomsday book was put together. Certainly, signs were found, of settlements in the Palaeolithic, Bronze, and Iron Ages. Fishing is likely to have been the draw then, as it still is today. In modern Whitstable, there is a decant sized, deep harbour, and fishing fleet. Oysters are traditionally found there, from way back. Today, I believe, they are also farmed just off that coast.
Whitstable, well know as the place for Oysters. Whitstable oysters are known for being large, and succulent. I say that as if I am an affectionado of them myself. Sorry to say, I'm not, but I do see people in the town, flocking to the places that sell them, and clearly enjoying them. There are many places who serve them in various ways. I myself, can eat them grilled with bacon, and Worcester sauce, but not raw, as most do.
Everywhere you walk in the town, are signs of a thriving fishing industry. Along the shingle beach, small boats crowd, cheek to jowl, many are leisure craft, but there are also many working boats closer to the harbour. Along this shoreline, quite unique to Whitstable at this time, I was told, are a whole row of renovated, or new, fishing huts. Huts where once fisherman would have stored, and cleaned his gear. Now, made into smart holiday, or weekend places. Here, you can rent a room, as if you were in a hotel, in fact I think they are part of a hotel. Inside, and outside they are clean, and smart, and right on the beach. A unique place to stay, for roughly seventy five pounds a night, and right on the beach. I can think of nowhere nicer, as either a warm, and comfortable hidey hole. Cosy in the winter, as the wind howls outside, or sitting outside in the sun in the Summer, watching the sea, the boats, or both. Or, perhaps just the people passing by.
They catch many kinds of shell fish here, reagrdless. The harbour is deep, and busy, the tall, black drying/smoking sheds are many. Sometimes, in the Summer when you visit, the piles of shells, either cockle of others, are piled nearly two stories high, obviously successful fleets. I assure you, I have seen them, stacked that high at the side of the wharf. During Summer months, there are many simple shellfish stalls around the harbour, selling the freshest of seafood. With chairs, and tables to sit, and watch the world go by. It's not smart, but it is pleasant. There are regular craft, and fruit markets held further up, by the deeper harbour, where the larger fishing vessels are moored. As well as a large sea food restaurant. There are, of course fish, and chips available all over the town. As everywhere, not all are worth eulogising. I always think, when choosing somewhere to eat the food famous of English food, it's best bought in a good fish restaurant. You want it fresh, and well cooked, if you are to enjoy it at its best. I have not tried all the outlets, by any means, but I am willing to do so.....given time.
Most of the immediate harbour area, is renovated, or rather rebuilt, to some degree. I think, done very sympathetically, in the syle of original fishing village, or harbour buildings. I recently saw some really smart apartments, and little town houses, not far from the harbour. The design is well thought out, and fits well with the original building of what certainly was, another charming fishing village. The coast, all around the UK is bustling with fishing vessels. Being the traditional way to live, and make a living around any coastal area.
I thought, looking around the little town, harbour, and high street, it would be a nice place to spend more time. Either in a holiday situation, or living there on a permanent basis. Despite it being dreadful weather, the last time I was there, the place was almost as busy, as it was earlier in the Summer. Many of these coastal towns draw you in with their own magic. The High street, and immediate area around the beach, and harbour, are no older than 18/19 century, despite it being an ancient place of settlement. Even the name, was once 'Witenstaple,' meaning meeting place of the white post. Around 1226, the name became Whitstaple. There are no pre 16 C. that I found. Due in main part, I believe to a destructive fire, called the Great. Fire. This burnt from Sea Street, to the Harbour, burning everything in its path.
The town, has a railway, station, once only running a relatively short distance, built to bring much needed coal from the north, down to the area. Some records mention timber from the Baltic too. It was about 1830, and called, at that time, the Crab,and Winkle line. More recently, in 2009 it connects with the main london fast line. Now, it would be business men going up to London, or tourists visiting. There are a good supply of hotels, and bed & breakfast places around the centre to accommodate them. It is possible to enjoy some good walks around the area, there is bycycle hire, the sea, and the many cafes, and small shops. As well as being close to Canterbury, and many other seaside towns, within easy travelling distance.
Whitstable, is a place that bears more investigation, if you have time. There are things you can't get to see in a few days. An Art Deco cinema, now a thriving eating place, and bar. A little theatre, still operating, and many small public houses, and sea side walks. Even a faux castle, with battlements, build in the nineteen eighties. With a pretty garden, now used mainly for wedding venues, I was told.
Over all, well known for being the home of some of the finest oysters, surely that is worth investigating. Who knows, even I, might be converted one day. Although next time, I hope the sun is shining, so that I can enjoy the best outdoor fish, and chip shop, called The Forge, I believe.
I wish you all the best of luck, in your explorations of this diverse coastline.
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