As as small fishing village, so close to France, it long held the reputation of being a smugglers haven. As did many of the seaside towns along this coast. So much so, that in 1784, William Pitt, the younger, then Lord warden of Walmer, close by, sent in the troops. Positioning a navel cutter off the beach to stop any boats escaping, he ordered all boats smashed, and burnt. As well as smuggling, later on, the boatmen, as members of the Chinqu Ports, had rights under charter, to import goods for services to the realm. Defending the coast, and rescuing shipwreck survivors, which they did bravely.
Today, there are a still good number of public houses along the sea front, far more than one on corner, as was once attested. Many are also small hotels, or Bed & Breakfast places today. As befits a seaside, holiday town on the South coast, all offering a selection of good food, with some excellent fish dishes amongst the smartest of them, The Dunkerley being one of the prettiest. All are of some historical significance, none of them being modern, this fishing village, mentioned in the Doomsday book. With many other mentions through history. Many of them uncomplimentary, as recently as 1823 a writer of guide books described it as 'a villainous place, full of filthy looking people' It's no wonder England is an interesting place to visit, is it? So brim full of history. For those visitors from new countries, like America, and Australia, it is walking into history, so much of it remains. Why, I was born here, and I love it's history.
Opposite the site of the pier.
The pier, 311m long, is centrally located, along the main sea front of the town. This is the third pier in its history since the first in 1838. It is long, said to be as long as the Titanic, in fact, the ship was marginally shorter, but not by much. It boasts a restaurant at the end, although better known as a favourite place for local fishmen. Being well known for fishing competitions. If you are not a fisherman, you could sit on one of the many sheltered benches along its length.
The current pier, built in 1957
This is quite an artistic town, with a good community of artists. I have spent some happy afternoons there when they are holding their annual open studios. As do a few other coastal towns of the area, but theirs was the friendliest. I think the shops reflect this too, with more than a few shops, with both artists materials, and retro painted furniture, gift shops, and some recycled fashion outlets. I find it a lovely little place to spend a day. What makes it nicer, is the growing assortment of cafes, and eating places around. This last weekend I discovered another new one, well new to me. In the high street, open on a Sunday, with some fine home cooked fancies. It is called the 'Pop Up Cafe,' only small, and simply furnished, but with classy touches I appreciated. A little timer to ensure the tea is brewed right, home made cakes, and two very pleasant people in charge. I suggest both you, and I return often, to see what they have new on the menu. See them on Facebook.
The castle located almost on the beach there is very unusual. One of the original coastal defences, built by Henry V111, is an amazing place to visit. Built in the rose pattern, which is six sprawling curved petals, enclosing six smaller petals, enclosing a circular centre, each one higher than the last. It needs to be seen from the air to appreciate its charm, and beauty. Although until recent years, the Queen Mother, I was told, used it regularly as her holiday destination by the coast. Someone, on reading this, says, ' no, it was to Walmer Castle she went' this a only a very short distance away. It is possible to tour the Deal castle most weekends, being open more days in the summer months.
A barracks was located in nearby Walmer, with the troops familiar in the town. Called the Deal barracks, it was the Royal Marine school of Music. As was a Naval shipyards, which helped the town prosper. The site of the Timeball Tower, a museum today. The Royal Marines were active throughout the last war. Although in 1989 the IRA bombed the barracks, killing 11, and wounding twice that number.
The town is old, as you would expect of such a varied history. Although today, with large mansion blocks of the Victorian, and Georgian era built along the seafront, it has a grander appearance than a mere fishing village. The flotilla of small boats are still drawn up on the beach, keeping that fishing flavour to the place. With its small narrow, and crowded streets, from earlier centuries, it is a charming place to visit. With plenty more still to discover.
The flotilla of boats is still found along the beach
DEAL, is varied, and interesting, with far more going on than I can mention here today. I heartily recommend a visit. It's a place, I almost bought a place to live a few years ago! I often think of repeating the excercise. It has a more gentile reputation than many other towns along this coast. Well deserved I think, with a fine stock of houses, from all eras.
Post script to this blog.
When first published, the people of Deal replied in great numbers to me. Certainly not seen in reply to any other town I have written about. It says to me, that there are many people there who not only enjoy being part of the town, but are also dedicated to its well being, and it's future.
I thank you all, it gave me a real buzz.
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