Wednesday, 1 January 2014

Whitstable, East Coast, Kent..ENGLAND

           Kent abounds with coastal towns. There is a long coastline along the chalk faced, South coast towards Dover, where I have primarily focused my attention so far. Or, many more around the point of the SW corner, past Margate, and up the East coat of Kent towards London. All these places have something about them, all have their own distinct characters. Today I am looking at Whitstable, located eight miles North of Canterbury, two miles NW of Herne Bay. By the time you travel along this coast, you are back to a lower coastline, and  more shingle once more. 
          The claim is, a settlement existed here well before the Doomsday book was put together. Certainly, signs were found, of settlements in the Palaeolithic, Bronze, and Iron Ages. Fishing is likely to have been the draw then, as it still is today. In modern Whitstable, there is a decant sized, deep harbour, and fishing fleet. Oysters are traditionally  found there, from way back. Today, I believe, they are also farmed just off that coast. 
           Whitstable, well know as the place for Oysters. Whitstable oysters are known for being large, and succulent. I say that as if I am an affectionado of them myself. Sorry to say, I'm not, but I do see people in the town, flocking to the places that sell them, and clearly enjoying them. There are many places who serve them in various ways. I myself, can eat them grilled with bacon, and Worcester sauce, but not raw, as most do.

                                 Débris of the thriving oyster beds, just off shore.
           Everywhere you walk in the town, are signs of a thriving fishing industry. Along the shingle beach, small boats crowd, cheek to jowl, many are leisure craft, but there are also many working boats closer to the harbour.  Along this shoreline, quite unique to Whitstable at this time, I was told, are a whole row of renovated, or new, fishing huts. Huts where once fisherman would have stored, and cleaned his gear. Now, made into smart holiday, or weekend places. Here, you can rent a room, as if you were in a hotel, in fact I think they are part of a hotel. Inside, and outside they are clean, and smart, and right on the beach. A unique place to stay, for roughly seventy five pounds a night, and right on the beach. I can think of nowhere nicer, as either a warm, and comfortable hidey hole. Cosy in the winter, as the wind howls outside, or sitting outside in the sun in the Summer, watching the sea, the boats, or both. Or, perhaps just the people passing by.

                         The shingle beach is crowded with small craft, covered for the Winter.
           They catch many kinds of shell fish here, reagrdless. The harbour is deep, and busy, the tall, black drying/smoking sheds are many. Sometimes, in the Summer when you visit, the piles of shells, either cockle of others, are piled nearly two stories high, obviously successful fleets. I assure you, I have seen them, stacked that high at the side of the wharf. During Summer months, there are many simple shellfish stalls around the harbour, selling the freshest of seafood. With chairs, and tables to sit, and watch the world go by. It's not smart, but it is pleasant. There are regular craft, and fruit markets held further up, by the deeper harbour, where the larger fishing vessels are moored. As well as a large sea food restaurant. There are, of course fish, and chips available all over the town. As everywhere, not all are worth eulogising. I always think, when choosing somewhere to eat the food famous of English food, it's best bought in a good fish restaurant. You want it fresh, and well cooked, if you are to enjoy it at its best. I have not tried all the outlets, by any means, but I am willing to do so.....given time.
                                          The drying/smoking sheds, on the deep harbour
           Most of the immediate harbour area, is renovated, or rather rebuilt, to some degree. I think, done very sympathetically, in the syle of original fishing village, or harbour buildings. I recently saw some really smart apartments, and little town houses, not far from the harbour. The design is well thought out, and fits well with the original building of what certainly was, another charming fishing village. The coast, all around the UK is bustling with fishing vessels. Being the traditional way to live, and make a living around any coastal area.

        This is an example of the older fishing village houses, but the newer ones are just a pretty.
           I thought, looking around the little town, harbour, and high street, it would be a nice place to spend more time. Either in a holiday situation, or living there on a permanent basis. Despite it being dreadful weather, the last time I was there, the place was almost as busy, as it was earlier in the Summer. Many of these coastal towns draw you in with their own magic. The High street, and immediate area around the beach, and harbour, are no older than 18/19 century, despite it being an ancient place of settlement. Even the name, was once 'Witenstaple,' meaning meeting place of the white post. Around 1226, the name became Whitstaple.  There are no pre 16 C. that I found. Due in main part, I believe to a destructive fire, called the  Great. Fire. This burnt from Sea Street, to the Harbour, burning everything in its path.
                               The high street of Whitstable, looking towards the Harbour.
             The town, has a railway, station, once only running a relatively short distance, built to bring much needed coal from the north, down to the area. Some records mention timber from the Baltic too. It was about 1830, and called, at that time, the Crab,and Winkle line. More recently, in 2009 it connects with the main london fast line. Now, it would be business men going up to London, or tourists visiting. There are a good supply of hotels, and bed & breakfast places around the centre to accommodate them. It is possible to enjoy some good walks around the area, there is bycycle hire, the sea, and the many cafes, and small shops. As well as being close to Canterbury, and many other seaside towns, within easy travelling distance.
             Whitstable, is a place that bears more investigation, if you have time. There are things you can't get to see in a few days. An Art Deco cinema, now a thriving eating place, and bar. A little theatre, still operating, and many small public houses, and sea side walks. Even a faux castle, with battlements, build in the nineteen eighties. With a pretty garden, now used mainly for wedding venues, I was told.
             Over all, well known for being the home of some of the finest oysters, surely that is worth investigating. Who knows, even I, might be converted one day. Although next time, I hope the sun is shining, so that I can enjoy the best outdoor fish, and chip shop, called The Forge, I believe. 
            I wish you all the best of luck, in your explorations of this diverse coastline.
               

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