Sunday 5 January 2014

Broadstairs. Kent. England

            I looked briefly at Broadstairs already, but only as part of the three towns making up the isle of Thanet. Broadstairs, is situated 80 miles from London, and 20 miles from Dover, heading  west along the coast, it is 20 miles from inland Canterbury. A place long considered the jewel in the crown of Thanet. The town crest is Stella Marris, or star of the sea. It certainly deserves a write up of its own. Originally, a small fishing village, and once a quite famous haunt for smugglers, it is now a seaside, tourist destination, with many comfortable holiday cottages, and bed & breakfast places. It is a thriving little town, with most modern amenities, and a good few restaurants, scattered around the town. 
        The name Broadstairs is taken from a flight of stairs once cut into the chalk cliffs. Leading from the beach to the cliff top, the so called 'Brood Stayrs', leading then, to a 11th century shrine of St Mary's. Retaining that old version of the name, for many centuries, through many of its trading, and smuggling years. Despite having the shrine built there, on the high cliff, it was in the nearby, more inland town of St Peters, that the first church was built in 1080. The cliftop settlement of Broadstairs grew slowly over the centuries, often struggling for survival over the hard years. Surviving mainly for, and by, fishermen, and labourers.

                                                           Viking Bay
           The entire coastline is still white chalk cliffs, of this type. In such steep, and beautiful cliffs was where the 'broad steps' were carved. The three bays making up Broadstairs, are, Viking Bay, Joss Bay, and Botany. Bay. Although there are a series of wonderful beaches, and bays around the area, the beach of present day Broadstairs is very popular, and accessible. You can easily see why it grew, and attracted people to its shores. In addition to why smugglers, and others utilised it's natural assets, and location, to their own ends.
            Where the present jetty is built, near the beach, is the original location for the first wooden pier, and jetty. This being built in 1460 by the son of Sir Richard Culmer, another Richard. This is replaced in 1538, when Harbour street, the Main Street from the pier to the town was constructed. Along with the added protection of the York Gate some two years later. The gate, still survives, although without the addition of its two strong gates. Built with the intention of shutting out, the marauding French from the town. A nation, who liked nothing better than to sack, and steal from all of the coastal towns opposite their own shores. As I mentioned already with the history of Deal. Something I am in no doubt, was reciprocated energetically by the English.
           The Peir, and Jetty, creates a natural harbour, and safe beach, with the gently sloping sand.
           Today, this jetty is used almost, purely recreationally. With a little cafe, and sometimes stalls, at the end in good weather. Back a couple of centuries, in the seventeen, and eighteen hundreds, it was much used for landing large catches of fish, from most of the main ports. Yarmouth, Hastings, Folkestone, Dover, Torbay, were all involved. The little Peir became important for that reason.
           The old stairs, probably gone by then, replaced by a new tunnel, and stairs, constructed to the fields above the cliff. Named the Waterloo stairs, it was here the Eagle standard was landed, taken at the battle of Waterloo. The import duty was so high, that smugglers abounded, bringing in whiskey, tobacco, and tea. All part of its complicated history with France. Even before these decades, a whole network of tunnels were dug into the chalk, and used by the smugglers, to both hide, and transport any contraband goods. 
             In 1824 a regular steamer trade is established, using the Peir, then called Steamer Point. Before this, little fishing hoys, took 72 hours travelling to Margate, from London. The steamers could do nine trips in the same time frame, a great advance. As the town began to become more prosperous, the population swelled. In 1825, it still only had a population of about 300. Then, during the next twenty five years, because of the steamers. It grew rapidly, to some 3000, as the middle/professional classes began to move in.This killed off the smuggling trade, around the year 1840, as it became more prosperous, and respectable.
              It wasn't until the Victorian era that the place boomed again. This time, because of the ideas about the value of 'taking the sea air.' Because if this, many children's convalescent homes were built. Wth large spa hotels gradually encroaching into the surrounding areas. The journey from London was considerable, as no railways arrived here until1863. Better connections, becoming available when Charring Cross, Victoria! and Cannon Street were built in London.
              Broadstairs lays claim to part of the life of Charles Dickens, as do many towns around the coast, and London. He being quite the traveller. He did spend twenty years staying for long periods in the town, from 1837-1859, and wrote prolifiacally in both the Albion hotel, and what became known as Bleak House, situated above the harbour. It is still possible to stay overnight in both places, and to retrace some of his footsteps. Both have excellent views, and are comfortable hotels. The Albion, being so much larger, also does a good trade in meals, and snacks. The ambiance of the place makes it very popular with locals, and visitors alike.The little house, he describes as Betsy trotwoods house, as seen from his hotel window, sits next door, and Is now a small museum in his honour. The town holds an annual celebration of his life here, in June, every year.
             The town holds many fairs, and festivals, live music venues. The bandstand on the green, hosts fairs regularly, and brass bands almost weekly.  It's all very pleasant in the summer months, with the winter good for brisk walks along the cliffs, and finding cosy cafes to relax. The fine sweep of beach, in the Summer is always busy, with old fashioned donkey rides, and Punch, & Judy shows. The sea there is Ideal for children, with it's gradually sloping beach.
              It's an interesting place to visit, with its little winding streets, and mix of Victorian buildings, and fishermans houses. It can be very difficult to drive through the town, or to park easily, with sections being single track, or one way. Yet, it never seems to put anyone off going. It's described as an almost typical Cornish fishing village. Amusing, considering it's nowhere near Cornwall. I think, as many others seem to, that it's a great town in which to live, as well as visit. Property prices hold their value better than a lot of places. There is no doubt in my mind, that it has much more going for it than being a 'look alike' of somewhere else. You have the charm of the area, lots going on, and the convenience of town. Particularly now, since 2009, the high speed trains get you into London so quickly. It's a smart, and popular commuter town, with typically English charm.
      Modern Broadstairs beach, and harbour, with town backdrop. Bleak House is on the hill.

          A glimpse of a stormy harbour, leading to the Peir, looking across to the French Coast.


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